The Last Two Gardens in Europe

On a green hillside above the northern coast, rows of clipped tea bushes ran downhill in long, tidy stripes toward the sea, almost as neat as if they had been drawn with a ruler. Polly landed on a low stone wall at the edge of the plantation and looked out over one of only two places left on the entire European continent where tea is still grown commercially, and the only one open to visitors.

Kwenye mteremko wa kijani juu ya pwani ya kaskazini, safu za vichaka vya chai vilivyokatwa vizuri zilishuka kuelekea baharini kama mistari mirefu na nadhifu, karibu kama iliyochorwa kwa rula. Polly alitua juu ya ukuta mfupi wa mawe pembeni mwa shamba na akatazama mahali ambapo ni mojawapo ya sehemu mbili tu zilizobaki katika bara zima la Ulaya ambapo chai bado inalimwa kibiashara, na pekee inayowakaribisha wageni.

The plantation began in eighteen eighty-three, after a disease wiped out the oranges that used to be the island's main export. Looking for something else the volcanic soil could support, a local grower imported tea bushes along with English machinery built to process them, and both have stayed in near-continuous use ever since, making this the oldest working tea estate in Europe by a wide margin.

Shamba hili lilianza mwaka wa elfu moja mia nane themanini na tatu, baada ya ugonjwa kuangamiza machungwa yaliyokuwa zao kuu la kisiwa. Akitafuta kitu kingine ambacho udongo wa volkano ungeweza kustawisha, mkulima mmoja wa hapo aliagiza vichaka vya chai pamoja na mitambo ya Kiingereza iliyotengenezwa kuisindika, na vyote viwili vimeendelea kutumika karibu bila kukoma tangu wakati huo, jambo linalolifanya kuwa shamba kongwe zaidi la chai linalofanya kazi Ulaya kwa tofauti kubwa.

Inside the low factory building, iron machines more than a century old still roll, sort, and dry the leaves almost exactly as they did when they first arrived by ship. Workers still pick the newest growth by hand along the terraces, since the tender top leaves make the best tea, and nothing here is sprayed with pesticide or herbicide, a rule the growers have kept since the very beginning.

Ndani ya jengo fupi la kiwanda, mitambo ya chuma yenye zaidi ya karne moja bado inasokota, inachambua na kukausha majani karibu sawasawa na ilivyofanya siku ilipowasili kwa meli. Wafanyakazi bado wanachuma machipukizi mapya kwa mikono kwenye matuta, kwa sababu majani machanga ya juu hutoa chai bora zaidi, na hakuna kinachonyunyiziwa dawa za wadudu au za magugu hapa, sheria ambayo wakulima wameishika tangu mwanzo kabisa.

Polly walked along one warm terrace, brushing against rows of glossy green leaves that smelled faintly of grass and rain. Somewhere down the slope, five generations of growers had kept this hillside exactly as it was meant to be, one careful harvest at a time.

Polly alitembea kwenye tuta moja lenye joto, akigusa safu za majani ya kijani yanayong'aa yenye harufu hafifu ya nyasi na mvua. Mahali fulani chini ya mteremko, vizazi vitano vya wakulima walikuwa wameutunza mlima huu jinsi ulivyopaswa kuwa, mavuno moja baada ya mengine kwa uangalifu.